RECONSTRUCTING LOST SPACES
WEEK 1
Choose a space in NYC
or the surrounding area that you can visit:
a street, a block, a building, a park, a monument, etc.
Observe it in person. Dig deep into its history.
Brighton Beach, Brooklyn
Brighton Beach Ave (from Ocean Parkway to Brighton 14th Street) + the beach that runs parallel to it.
What made you curious about it?
Since around 2019, I’ve enjoyed riding my bike along Ocean Parkway down to Brighton Beach (it’s truly one of my favorite places).
In addition to sitting on the beach, I’ve also enjoyed getting Russian dumplings, Uzbek food at Kashkar, or visiting the St. Petersburg bookstore (this is where I bought my Babayaga doll). They sell copies of the world’s most famous books translated into Slavic languages, with Soviet propaganda decorating the stairwell and walls (for educational purposes only). There are also various stores I like visiting for bread, baklava, nuts, and dates. I also really enjoy this one store that sells records, CDs, DVDs, and books. The guy who runs it is one of those typical surly record store personalities, but in an Eastern Bloc font.
The boardwalk often features a rotating cast of characters and scenes that I will, without trying, stumble upon. This includes random outdoor dance classes, a woman playing melodica, legal (and illegal) fireworks, retired men in speedos, and men attempting to steal my bike (these men are unrelated to the speedo men). During Covid, I used to sit on the lifeguard chair at night to look at the Cyclone. It felt like a lighthouse, and it offered the message, “we are still here“.
A waitress at one of my favorite varenyky places secretly houses a 17-yr old cat in the backroom of the restaurant. When this cat comes up to me, it feels like I’ve been blessed by a mythical creature. This is the same waitress who once advised me to “Never trust a man, ever.” I told her that I’d “find a middle ground with that.” The restaurant is cash only, and I always forget that, so I usually have to visit the ATM in the bodega next door. If you want money from this ATM, your options are $20, $40, $200, $300, and $400. It’s a reminder that almost every Eastern European neighborhood in NYC has at least one illegal gambling parlor within walking distance. Throw a rock, and you’ll hit one. The suspicious ATM options are usually a tell-tale sign. It always feels like a little secret I’m keeping.
Although I already have a personal connection to it, I wanted to do some actual research on this beloved enclave while highlighting the contrast between the beach and the avenue that runs parallel to it.
In addition to sitting on the beach, I’ve also enjoyed getting Russian dumplings, Uzbek food at Kashkar, or visiting the St. Petersburg bookstore (this is where I bought my Babayaga doll). They sell copies of the world’s most famous books translated into Slavic languages, with Soviet propaganda decorating the stairwell and walls (for educational purposes only). There are also various stores I like visiting for bread, baklava, nuts, and dates. I also really enjoy this one store that sells records, CDs, DVDs, and books. The guy who runs it is one of those typical surly record store personalities, but in an Eastern Bloc font.
The boardwalk often features a rotating cast of characters and scenes that I will, without trying, stumble upon. This includes random outdoor dance classes, a woman playing melodica, legal (and illegal) fireworks, retired men in speedos, and men attempting to steal my bike (these men are unrelated to the speedo men). During Covid, I used to sit on the lifeguard chair at night to look at the Cyclone. It felt like a lighthouse, and it offered the message, “we are still here“.
A waitress at one of my favorite varenyky places secretly houses a 17-yr old cat in the backroom of the restaurant. When this cat comes up to me, it feels like I’ve been blessed by a mythical creature. This is the same waitress who once advised me to “Never trust a man, ever.” I told her that I’d “find a middle ground with that.” The restaurant is cash only, and I always forget that, so I usually have to visit the ATM in the bodega next door. If you want money from this ATM, your options are $20, $40, $200, $300, and $400. It’s a reminder that almost every Eastern European neighborhood in NYC has at least one illegal gambling parlor within walking distance. Throw a rock, and you’ll hit one. The suspicious ATM options are usually a tell-tale sign. It always feels like a little secret I’m keeping.
Although I already have a personal connection to it, I wanted to do some actual research on this beloved enclave while highlighting the contrast between the beach and the avenue that runs parallel to it.
Brighton Beach Ave: A continuous strip of small businesses under the elevated B, Q subway line. Gray and dark, no matter the time of day, due to the shadow cast by the train, with spots of color on the business awnings. Brick apartment buildings. Eastern European pop music coming from cafes, the rumble of the train overhead, and cars honking. People clammering in the markets.
The Beach: Moderately busy boardwalk and beach (depending on the day). In one direction, the boardwalk turns into the Coney Island/Luna Park area. In the other direction, the boardwalk ends, and a private gated community begins. Bright sunlight on the sand. Neutral and gray tones of the boardwalk at dusk. Mostly quiet. Seagull sounds and music from radios. Conversations in Slavic languages and many others that my ear can’t quite make out.
The Beach: Moderately busy boardwalk and beach (depending on the day). In one direction, the boardwalk turns into the Coney Island/Luna Park area. In the other direction, the boardwalk ends, and a private gated community begins. Bright sunlight on the sand. Neutral and gray tones of the boardwalk at dusk. Mostly quiet. Seagull sounds and music from radios. Conversations in Slavic languages and many others that my ear can’t quite make out.
Describe your subjective impressions: people, energy, culture, flow
A strong Eastern European and Central Asian presence. A mix of long-term multi-generational families, small business owners, and retiree-age beach goers. The boardwalk and commercial strip slip into one another like an energetic gradient. There’s a noticeable shift between the quiet beach and chaotic main street energy. The area gives me the impression that there are a lot of overlapping histories within the communities. The people here feel like they are carrying something heavy. Like they have reached a temporary respite, but are still waiting for the other shoe to drop.
What did you learn through your research? Make sure to share your information sources.
Something surprising I learned: before the first Eastern European migrations to Brighton Beach began, the area was in a severe state of decline after previously being known as a pretty thriving resort town. Apparently, the Soviet refugees revived it with their small businesses, many of which I have come to love.
The cultural identity of Brighton Beach, or “Little Odessa”, as it currently stands, really began in the 70s when around 40,000 Soviet immigrants arrived after fleeing religious and political repression. Then in the early 90s, following the collapse of the USSR, more Russians arrived, along with Georgians, Azerbaijanis, Armenians, and Central Asians (particularly Uzbeks). Apparently, it's the largest Russian-speaking community in the Western Hemisphere!
The cultural identity of Brighton Beach, or “Little Odessa”, as it currently stands, really began in the 70s when around 40,000 Soviet immigrants arrived after fleeing religious and political repression. Then in the early 90s, following the collapse of the USSR, more Russians arrived, along with Georgians, Azerbaijanis, Armenians, and Central Asians (particularly Uzbeks). Apparently, it's the largest Russian-speaking community in the Western Hemisphere!
https://www.archives.nyc/
https://brooklynjewish.org/neighborhoods/brighton-beach/
https://thesciencesurvey.com/features/2025/03/18/brighton-beach-the-soviet-jewish-refuge-in-brooklyn/
https://brooklynjewish.org/neighborhoods/brighton-beach/
https://thesciencesurvey.com/features/2025/03/18/brighton-beach-the-soviet-jewish-refuge-in-brooklyn/